The hearth of Marca

The hearth of Marca
Magazine: September 2007

The Marca Trevigiana area, old both in name and beauty, has a double connection to wine: the vineyards delineate the southernmost boundaries where the river Piave fl ows at the foot of the pre-alpine hills, and the nectar obtained from these, particularly of the white variety, sits majestically alongside the simple and tasty local cuisine made from freshly picked raw ingredients.
The Marca region has had its name since the 10th century when the area was governed by Berengario Marchese of Friuli. Today the region still covers an extensive area: the dolomites stand out in the northern horizon moving to the sea on its southernmost tip as far as Equilio, an ancient city famous for its horses and today known as Jesolo, with views of hillsides and rivers cutting through the expanse of plains.

As in Venice, Treviso owes its appeal to water. Its rivers, starting with the Sile, branch off into an intricate network of leats and canals brushing the sides of porticoed street

Pearl of Veneto
Conegliano lies at the foot of the Veneto hillsides and, as well as combining admirable artistic elements and culinary pleasures, it is also the start of the Prosecco region.
A leisurely tour of the historical centre with medieval origins is an absolute must, meandering through the porticos on via XX settembre and on to the 14th century cathedral enriched with external frescos depicting scenes from the Old Testament (end of the 16th Century) and its famous altarpiece with a Madonna and Child on a throne, Saints and Angels, a masterpiece by Giovan Battista Cima, born and raised in Conegliano.
The Castelvecchio fortress is also unmissable, perching at the town’s summit with its beautiful Campana Tower (turned Civic Museum).
Conegliano, however, is primarily wine and grappa centre. All the local labels have a personal history and vineyard, evolved from an art that developed in this area around 1600 when the local farmers produced “a strong and clear noble-water” in caldrons using grape marc.
And it is not by chance that the “Pearl of Veneto”, as this town is commonly referred to, is the location of the famous Istituto Cerletti enological school (founded in 1876), of a plethora of wine cellars, distilleries and the Accademia della Grappa and Acquaviti, which forms experts and professional tasters.
Delicate brandies with fruity nuances are produced from the white grapes grown in the hillside area between Valdobbiadene, Conegliano and Asolo.

Little Venice
There is a high percentage of savoir vivre here, both due to daily rhythms which are light years away from metropolitan ones, and that delicate love of cuisine where the main ingredients come from fertile and abundant cultivations.
Starting from red chicory “which is a gift from autumn to winter to liven up the bleak and empty fi elds with a bit of colour” Igp since 1996, and is king of the risotto that takes its name. Dual-combinations are the stars of the table: rice with mushrooms or bruscandoi (wild asparagus) or polenta with imbriago cheese.
It is a very unusual cheese that is literally inebriated (as the name suggests) and was made accidentally during the fi rst world war when it was hidden in the fermenting wine must tubs thus formed the wine-marinated ‘inbriago’ cheese that is still produced today with its purple crust and a slightly spicy fl avour.
“The ‘inebriating’ process, where the cheese is placed in the wine must, last 15 days”, explains Denis Pasin, dairy producer from the Latteria Sociale Turnaria of Conegliano.

A toast to art and nature
Valdobbiadene, joint Prosecco capital with Conegliano, is located on a plateau at the foot of the Barbaria and Cesen mountains.
Surrounded by prime Prosecco cultivations, every September it hosts the National Spumante Exhibition in the eighteenth century halls of Villa Cedri and includes conventions and tasting in the presence of oenologists and sommeliers.
Valdobbiadene also deserves a stop for its artistic features: the main square is surrounded by neoclassical buildings and the local parish which cherishes works by Palma il Giovane and Paris Bordon.
Most importantly however it is the starting point for discovering the region on foot. The fi rst walk connects the main square to the S. Florian Sanctuary and its breathtaking view.
Continue to reach mount Cesen from where you can cast your eyes over the whole Marca Trevigiana and Bellunese regions and, on particularly clear days, even on the Venetian lagoon. For an equally pleasant and decidedly romantic walk a little further south and a handful of kilometres from Venice, is the main town of the Marca region, Treviso.
A beautiful town with an intense yet discrete attractiveness, reminiscent of Venice and defi nitely to be explored on foot. A must is piazza dei Signori in the heart of the old town, but the waterways, such as the Buranelli canal once used for commercial exchanges particularly with the Burano Island, have a decidedly instant appeal.

Pleasures at the Villa
To witness the grape harvest in the Prosecco hillsides is a magical experience and at the Locanda Sandi it becomes a true celebration of flavours, savouring the local products and the Villa Sandi wines.
This beautiful farmhouse is surrounded by Prosecco Doc vineyards, whose grapes are made into wine in the adjoining cellar.
A simple and refined atmosphere with six suggestive bedrooms, each one with its own colourful and moving history.
From the tavern you can admire the Valdobbiadene hills and the famous Cartizze crù.
The typical Trevigiana cuisine served here includes skewered meat, polenta, grilled specialities, pasta with beans and cooked cheeses, including variations by the competent chef Andrea Maccagnon in dishes such as red Marinali risotto with taleggio cheese, accompanied by this same great Villa Sardi red wine, or green asparagus soup served with a tardy Sauvingnon.

Canova Effect

Possagno hosts the summer cultural highlight of the Trevigiana region in the main hall of the Canova residence. Here you can view Prince Henryk Lubomiski, known as Amore, in all his charming beauty depicted seductively in the nude, just like the mythological God of Eros.
The marble statue, an absolute masterpiece by the Venetian artist, object of worship contention by museums from all over the world, was commissioned by the Polish Princess Elzbieta Lubomirski who, recently widowed, had taken a liking to this charming thirteen year old, a distant relative of her deceased spouse.
Henryk is only the highlight of the festivities organised to celebrate 250 years since the birth of Antonio Canova (1757-2007). To fully appreciate his artistic genius and elegantly conclude this cultural trip we recommend a visit to the Gipsoteca, enriched with 30 works of art dedicated to Love and Venus.