Gluttonous Turing

Gluttonous Turing
Torino (TO)
Goloso
Magazine: May 2007

The Winter 2006 Olympics have revived Turin, which has changed both its look and its character. Traditionally rooted to its past as the capital of Savoy, this reserved and slightly snobbish city has flowered into a welcoming and open town, generous in beauty and news. From the elegance of the town centre, with its wonderful squares, striking monuments and spectacular architecture, to the futuristic structures of Lingotto, the romance of Valentino Park, the trendy hotspots lining the Murazzi on the shores of the River Po and the amazing Museum of Cinema in a crescendo of visuals and emotions. A sparkling, recently restored Palazzo Madama with its baroque façade and magnificent staircase symbolises the city’s history, full of art treasures, among which, the Portrait of a Man by Antonello da Messina, who captures such a depth of expression that his subject seems to look you square in the eyes to discover who you are. Not to be missed, a climb to the top of the tower, the view of the city will sweep you away.

Walking around Turin provides a continual stream of stimuli: straight roads, stretches of beckoning porticos, the broad expanse of Piazza San Carlo, Turin’s real movida hangout, stylish stores, famous confectioners and chocolatiers such as Stratta or Gertosio. It is also a unique setting for historical coffee houses: Mulassano, Fiorio, Baratti, San Carlo, Caval’d brôns, Torino, Platti, each as alluring as the next. Mirrors, frescos, lamplight, vintage furniture, inviting tables and an endless array of specialities: tiny pastries, super sandwiches, ice cream, the creamery and Turin’s famous hazelnut chocolate “gianduiotto”, And, naturally, the best drinking chocolate. Try the legendary Bicerin bar, opposite the Church of the Consolata, to indulge in a coffee, chocolate and cream of milk supreme, poured in layers and not mixed to spark bursts of distinctive flavours, accompanied by a slice of Bicerin cake or a glass of zabaione. The yearn to shop is well met by 18km of elegant arcades, with their famous designer stores, well-stocked delicatessens, young clothing boutiques, especially Via Garibaldi, and the colourful Porta Palazzo market. While Gran Balôn is Europe’s biggest antiques market. Time capsules

Turin invites chocolate lovers to sample the city’s sweetest things: 10 delicacies can be sampled in 24 hours for the price of €10, or 15 in 48 hours for €15. The tickets are sold at the Tourist Information Points, open every day in Piazza Solferino, Porta Nuova railway station and Caselle Airport.

Architects like Fuksas, Renzo Piano, Gae Aulenti, Arata Isozaki have all lent their names to this part of the city. If you don’t suffer heights, you must take the aerial walkway connecting Valentino Park to the Lingotto complex. The old Fiat factory has been transformed into a huge entertainment hub, boasting cinemas, restaurants, exhibitions, sports facilities and the Pinacoteca of Giovanni and Marella Agnelli with its amazing rooftop view. Nearby Eataly is the first gourmet supermarket of good taste and good food, with eatery counters in each department. Book a table at Guido, the recherché restaurant inside Eataly, for the evening. Cocktail hour is the best time in Turin, where Benedetto Carpano invented vermouth in 1786, and which Cinzano and Martini&Rosso then made famous planet-wide. The Aperitivo sotto la Mole turns the cocktail hour into a compelling tour of the city, taking in historical bars, with a nod to Palazzo Carpano, and offering a free drink in some of Turin’s trendiest places. Other suggestions

A selection of 38 hotels, 2-star to 5-star with rates of between 59 € and 154 € /day/person. Two nights in a double room with breakfast, parents + one child under 12 sleeping in same room, 2-day Turin+Piedmont Card, guided tour of the city, entrance to the Egizio Museum, ranking second only to Cairo, special price for third night’s stay, are just some of the inviting offers.

The itinerary unfolds against the elegant backdrop of Piazza San Carlo, where we marvel at Caffè Torino with its early 20th century décor, before moving to magnificent Palazzo Carpano, corporate HQ of the famous vermouth producers and then to Piazza Carignano. This square alone hosts the unforgettable Caffè Pepino, the birthplace of eat-as-you-go ice cream, the Carignano Theatre and the historical Ristorante del Cambio, which still features the table at which Cavour used to dine. We then head for Piazza Carlo Alberto, down Via Po with Caffè Florio, est. 1780, and up to the Mole Antonellianau. The ?8 ticket includes a free drink at one of Turin’s trendiest bars. The tour is organised between 2 June and 29 July.