|
Travelling through France
France
Magazine: September 2007
Normandy Brittany Atlantic Loire The valley of the Loire Poitou-Charentes
It is the Atlantic coast of Western France, majestic dunes, striking cliffs, picturesque harbours, country villages overlooking a tranquil sea, immense pine forests, the tenderness of nature and history of the Loire Valley, strewn with castles and vineyards. The area encompasses fi ve regions, each one with its own intriguing character. Saint Malo, on the coast of Brittany, is worth at least a day, the Loire Valley is enchanting when discovered by bicycle, in the Atlantic Loire one can discover contemporary art treasures along the estuary, then, when the day is done, warm up the heart with a cognac from Poitou-Charentes.
Normandy: between the land and the sea Journeying across natural beauty one arrives down at the splendid abbey of Mont Saint-Michel, while Rouen, Caen, Alençon, Evreux e St. Lô guard regional art treasures, and Bayeux takes pride in its 70 meter long tapestry from the XI century. An absolute must on the itinerary is also the antique Villedieu-les- Poêles, where bells are still cast and copper utensils are produced. The land of painters such as Monet and of writers like Maupassant, but also a cuisine cornucopia, featuring world-renowned cheeses: Camembert, Livarot, Pont-l’Evêque, and Neufchâtel.
Brittany: the rhythm of the tides It is difficult to decide which is the more fascinating natural panorama: the wild waves beating on the rocks, the beaches shaped and reshaped daily by the Atlantic, the Calvari architecture of the cathedral cities, the stone monoliths, or the forests of the Armorique National Park. And then there are promontories with old lighthouses and international harbours like Brest. The cuisine offers bold fl avours and is a mixture of sea, land, and craftsmanship of men who prepare and bring to the table natural treasures from the area. This is a region of highly talented chefs, united in the association “Tables et Saveurs de Bretagne”, which includes 41 restaurants awarded with either a Michelin star or two notices in the more prestigious travel guides. “Restaurants du terroir” is the mark of chefs who love the region inviting diners to discover the special “menu du terroir”.
Oysters and salt in the Atlantic Loire There is another Loire, that of the Atlantic. It is known for its cathedrals, abbeys, and manors from Le Mans, Sainte Suzanne to the abbey in Solesmes. The fl avour of vendée-atlantique oysters, in particular, those which are born and fl ourish between the bays of Bourgneuf, Pornic, and Beauvoir-sur-mer. And then, the aroma of Guérande salt which is gathered by artisans between June and September. Region worth visiting even if only for the lure of its cuisine, for its toureens of fi sh or jellied meats, for paté, exquisite cheeses (above all, Curé Nantais, created, of course, near Nantes, in Saint-Julien-de-Concelles in 1880, with the sole remaining manufacturer in Pornic.
The valley of the Loire and of kings Chenonceau, Chambord, Cheverny…but also Azay, Amboise, Villandry, Chaumont: these are names which continue to inspire beyond ages and trends. At the table, the enthusiasm of Rabelais leaves no doubt: this garden of France is not only beautiful, but tasty. Among the best: the grains from Beauce and the wild game from Sologne, a cuisine which blends pâte from Chartres, roosters, goat cheeses, the best produce, and naturally fi sh from the Loire. Cotignac (traditional quince apple jelly) prevails in Orléans, Crottin cheese from Chavignol is a new selection from the aristocratic repertoire, and lentils from Berry which are 70% of the lentils produced in France.
Poitou-Charentes: atmosphere warmed by Cognac Historically rich, represented by cities like La Rochelle, Poitiers, and by landscapes sweetly rising and falling amid the hills. Historic cities, seaside resorts, Roman ruins, glorious harbours, multicoloured islands (Ré and Olérons) and salty marshes brimming with oysters and mussels. These are many aspects which share a common romantic, melancholy atmosphere all found in the territory warmed by Cognac. Born almost accidentally by distilling wine for long conservation, and very subtly distinguished between one winery and another. But vins de pays are also produced here, table wines made from Charente grapes. And Pineau des Charentes attained from mixed brandy and grape juice, aged for a year in oak barrels and served fresh. As much a part of the local cuisine as oysters, are the renowned duck dishes.
Foto George Fisher/Crtb Foto E.Lorang Foto C.Lazi - Crt Centre - Val de Loire Foto Guichard-Office de Tourisme de Caen Foto Crt Normandie Foto Henry Marcou Foto Jean-Patrick Gratien Foto Frank Hamon Foto Sem regionale des pays de la Loire Foto Crt Centre-Val-de-Loire Foto Crt.pc P. Baudry
|