The pearls of the Cyclades

The pearls of the Cyclades
Magazine: July 2008

Folégandros is intimate, traditional and elegant. Trendy but not snooty. Ideal for those who want to lounge peacefully in the sun and for nature lovers. Hotels are Cycladic style with spectacular views of the coral reef and during the day there are trails amongst orchards, terraces of vines and solitary fig trees. Splendid bays, psarotavernas (fish taverns) overlooking the Aegean are reached on foot. No one is in a hurry here in Folégandros, secret gem of the Cyclades, which has become a destination for voyagers tired of the chaos of the other more tourist oriented islands. No “ fast food”, only the delight of landing in a piece of the magical and luminous Mediterranean. The hillsides are dried out by the sun and the salt spray, weathered by the meltemi (the northeast wind which blows off the Aegean), crisscrossed by mule tracks which keep trekking fans happy. They can discover the beautiful creeks (Kàtergo, Livadaki, Agios Nikolaos) on foot enveloped in the perfumed air of thyme, sage, honeysuckle and rosemary. The beaches are splendid, beds of polished pebbles courted by an emerald sea.

On foot
around Chora

Chora (capital
of the island) is one
of the most scenic
of the Cyclades.
The crosses of the
church are erected
on immaculate domes
and the clusters
of fuchsia and violet
bougainvillea brush
the immaculate walls
of the medieval Kastro,
a labyrinth of cubed
two-storey houses.
Chora is perched
on a steep cliff,
dominated by the
church of Panagia.
The tranquil rhythms
of the inhabitants
enchant
the visitors. Men and
women with ancient
faces sip strong coffee
under the plane trees
of Piazza Kontarini
in the early morning.
Kontarini is the “dining
room of ” La Chora,
with its taverns which
are animated in the
evenings. At the tables
of the Taverna Piatza
one can linger from
dawn, enjoying
a breakfast of Greek
yoghurt, fresh fruit
and honey. The
grouting of the paving
stones of La Chora
is painted white.
The painting is
refreshed every year
during the Orthodox
Easter when the icon
of the Madonna
is taken out from the
Panagia and for three
days is transported
on a procession
through the island,
visiting every house.

Seaside sights
The most beautiful beaches are concentrated on the northwest and southeast sides. Starting the seaside tour from the west coast the first bay is Agali, a half-moon of sand with a calm mirror of glittering green water. To enjoy the sea in a more sheltered area take the road which leads from Agali to a beautiful pebbled creek ‘far from the madding crowd’: Agios Nikolaos. On the rocks perched above Adios Nicolas is the terrace of the Taverna Papalagi where they serve excellent Greek salads made with cherry tomatoes, capers and soft and flavoured local goats cheese. The most untamed natural beach is Livadàki, a blue crystal of sea enveloped by a sinuous curve of pebbles and light coloured rocks. On the south side of Folégandros one can discover Kátergo, the most beautiful beach of the island. The nightlife in Folégandros shuns overtly consumerist modes. One wanders through the tiny streets of the capital, sips an aperitif in the Rakendia Sunset Bar or strolls around the boutiques to then dine amongst the geraniums in the O Kritikós restaurant, which serves traditional moussaka and fish or meat grills.