Atlantic ocean jewels

Atlantic ocean jewels
Magazine: May 2008

The tiny archipelago of Cape Verde is a piece of Africa scattered in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It is a group of islands, each one different from the other. Amongst these: the volcanic cordillera of Santo Antao, the endless beaches of Boa Vista, the scenery of Sal, arid and primitive, and the fashionista spirit of Sao Vicente. A small cosmopolitan universe where African and Creole origins meet Portuguese culture. At fi rst sight you seem to have embarked on another planet. Rocks, salt and sand are the elements of Ilha do Sal. Espargos stuns with its colours, traffi c and the multitude of people. Strewn along the streets: tiny shops, ceramic markets, terracotta. Leaving behind the capital of the island, move along the coast to Palmeira, a simple fi shing village. The perfect place for regenerating mind and body is Pedra do Lume. A row of sun scorched poles, relics from the ancient activity of salt transportation, mark the road to follow. The salt mine is hidden by a ring of mountains which outline an ancient crater. The extinct volcano has been invaded by water that fi lters from the sea. The real heart of the Sal Island is Santa Maria. The streets are full of people who stroll around the shops. The crystalline sea churns up frothy white waves.

Santo Antao, green heart
Shortly after moving into the interior of Santo Antao, the rugged scenery undergoes an amazing transformation. Luxuriant vegetation covers the island like a green velvet cape. Following a narrow road we come upon an unusual sight. A land of torturous valleys dug out of the water, the Ribeiras. Lush and green, they delve into profound canyons which lead into the sea. The western part of the island offers an apocalyptic sight. One is surrounded by desert expanses and rocky cliffs on which the profi le of the volcanic peak of Topo da Coroa stands out. The Ribeira Grande and the Ribeira da Torre are heaven for canoeing fans. The miniscule island of Sao Vicente seems to swathe tightly around its capital: Mindelo. Embedded between the sea and a rocky massif, it is one of the most enchanting cities of the whole archipelago. It is extremely pleasant to stroll along the elegant palm-lined streets, past a fascinating mélange of pastel coloured classical style Portuguese abodes and houses with sloping roofs and wide windows typical of British colonisation. At night the city transforms into a huge dance fl oor, the feast starts in the large Amilcar Cabral square and rapidly spreads to the bars and discos.