The pleasant side of snow

The pleasant side of snow
Valle d'Aosta
Magazine: November 2007

The Ferret valley is emblematic of the contrasting aspects of the Aosta valley.

This region is either associated with the image of a spectacular, but harsh mountain, or ski consumerism. But, the Aosta valley also has a sweet side. The region is undergoing a renaissance in its food The pleasant side of snow and wine, culture, and tourism sectors, presenting new ways to experience nature and snow, attracting visitors to the middle and low valleys as well. A fl urry of hotel and restaurant restorations, plus “not just skiing” offers attest to this: for example, they are transforming Alpine lodges into gourmet restaurants and charming hotels. An ideal itinerary in search of new winter wonderland ‘sensations’ in the Aosta valley starts right in the Ferret valley, a sweet and serene world, ideal for cross-country skiing and trekking with Plancipieux as its hub. Further down in the valley, La Thuile. Its old, stone centre and little quarters counterbalance the tourist energy of its station. The high Aosta valley (identifi ed here as Valdigne) is also characterized by a lesser known feature: it hosts the highest vineyards in Europe.

The custom of the grolla
IIn the Aosta Valley it is customary to share a drink from the grolla, a covered wine chalice carved out of high quality wood. Begun on the woodcarver’s lathe, it is eventually polished and decorated. Its origin is both religious and social; from early Christian chalice to peasant cup. The grolla is reserved for social drinking on special occasions, while serving as a wooden bowl for daily use. What is typically referred to as a grolla is actually a slightly different item: the cup of friendship. Derived from the grolla, but short and stout with spouts and a carved cover, it is primarily used for “valdostana” style coffee mixed with grappa, sugar, and spices. Passed around and shared: it is a true symbol of friendship.

Delicacies in season
Chestnuts with Arnad bacon or Mocetta with honey and black bread take their place among the
appealing combinations of seasonal delicacies from the Aosta valley, but classic recipes are the perennial favourites. For the fi rst course: soups, for example Seupa à la Vapelenentse. Stale bread, butter, fontina cheese, cabbage, and broth are its main ingredients.
The most famous dish though remains as always toast dipped in fontina cheese fondue.
For dessert: the Tarte aux pommes with Fiocca (apple tart with whipped cream), the Seuppa
de l’Ano made from black bread, spiced red wine, and sugar, or chocolate fondue served with fruit.

Destination Paradise
Leaving Valdigne, three valleys run almost parallel towards Gran Paradiso National Park: Valgrisenche, Rhêmes valley, and Valsavarenche. North of Aosta, the Gran San Bernardo valley. South of Aosta, cross-country skiing capital: Cogne, bordering the meadow of Sant’Orso with Gran Paradiso in the background. One can get to Pila by cable car from Aosta.
The station represents the modern aspect of the valleys, but also preserves its characteristic restaurants.
In the Cervino valley, it is a pleasure to discover little towns like Magdeleine and Torgnon, quiet and sheltered on the slopes, equipped for downhill and cross-country skiing. Continuing east, the Ayas and Gressoney valleys.
The Ayas valley is a blend of “French” and “walser” cultures, as is observable in its architecture.
The “walser” heritage is even more noticeable in the Gressoney valley.