Noble Maremma

Noble Maremma
Maremma
Magazine: March 2008

It’s time for weekends outside. Time, then, to visit Tuscany, that place “for connoisseurs” and gourmet enthusiasts. After having made Chiantishire famous, the foreigners “colonized” the so called Etruscan Coast between Castagneto Carducci and Castiglioncello, a land of noble wines and a fashionable destination. Bolgheri (known for its cypress trees cited by poet Giosué Carducci) and Castagneto are the barycentre of a journey among wineries, wine bars, oil mills, and excellent restaurants. Bolgheri, a hamlet of Castagneto Carducci in the province of Livorno, is part of a still rustic, genuine Tuscany where maritime pines are just two steps away from sandy beaches. Further inland, one finds dense woods and vineyards. The vines give those fabled red wines that pair perfectly with the local cuisine their decisive, essential flavours. White and blush wines are not lacking for pairing with fish dishes, such as wines from the Guado al Tasso Estate. Not so far from there, the very long road made famous in poems by Carducci begins. A short bit down the road, a sign indicates the headquarters of the Etruscan Coast Wine Path Consort with the Sassicaia winery located in front of it.

Stops for Connoisseurs
The village that gives its name to DOC Bolgheri is right at the end of the famous cypress lined avenue. Of medieval origins, it has belonged to the Della Gherardesca family since the beginning of the 2nd century. Carducci lived here since childhood and continues to be a real presence. The Tognoni wine bar at the entrance of the town, is one place where connoisseurs stop to buy a bottle or try a glass. After the break, go back to the avenue following the Via Bolgherese-Castagneto Carducci indications. A sign along the road points out the Fonte di Farno olive grove belonging to the Di Gaetano family. For some years now, they have dedicated themselves to olive cultivation and extra virgin oil production. For accommodations in the area, enjoy the charming Podere la Cerreto inn found in Sassetta, a few kms. south of Castagneto. Everything here is homemade: bread, oil, wine. One of the best places for tasting the local cuisine is Ugo which prepares delicious wild game canapés. The wine bar-restaurant ‘Le Giubbe Verdi’ is very picturesque. Set in an old winery, it offers an elegant, delicious menu.