Earth Sister

Earth Sister
Magazine: October 2007

Umbria. In Bovara, hamlet of Trevi, there is the olive tree of Sant’Emilano, believed to be the oldest in Italy. The plant has produced olives for more than 1700 years and has a trunk nine meters round

Oil, wine, water. These are the natural elements of an eternal dance that make up the emerald mosaic of ancient olive groves, ageless vineyards and translucent rivers that is Umbria, aptly known to many as the green heart of Italy. The centre is, as it has always been: the Cardona Bridge, near Narni, nicknamed “the Italian navel” by the Romans. In this very spot, a plaque indicates the coordinates, latitude 42° 30’ 11’’ and longitude 12° 34’ 24,’’ marking the geographic centre of the boot. It is undeniably green. On the surface of the grape vine and olive tree covered hills, forests, chestnut woods and thickets of Mediterranean vegetation intermingle. Umbria is an absolute must for a well rounded traveller, just as it was for the tourists on the Grand Tour, a leisurely voyage taken to acquire a taste for history and beauty. One discovers country sides still faithful to the landscapes of Corot and Turner. For a trip to Umbria, October surpasses the other months of the year with its many opportunities to enter into contact with the taste of places thanks to numerous food and wine events organized in honour of local products.

City of chocolate
The capital city, Perugia, is the largest of the historic cities in Umbria. All its gems are concentrated in the nucleus of the historic centre enclosed by Etruscan walls and resting on high hills that border the right bank of the Tevere river. Piazza IV November is the heart of the city with its grand fountain in the centre erected in 1278 and decorated with 50 bas-reliefs and 24 statues by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. But the city’s most enchanting qualities are its sweets made from ancient recipes. For example, pinoccate (or pignoccate) delicious pine nut cakes or two braided cake specialities: torciglione in the shape of a snake, full of raisins, nuts and dried fi gs, and torcolo, ring shaped cake with raisins and candied fruits. But Perugia is famous for chocolate: home of Bacio Perugina, for some years now its streets and buildings are literally invaded by the beloved candy for a few days each autumn.

Orvieto for all tastes
Henry James, one of history’s illustrious visitors to the region, advised tourists “to ignore the very dream of haste, walking everywhere very slowly and very much at random.” His advice is certainly wise, because, more than in people-oriented cities, everything still resonates with the rhythms and customs of a bygone era. The aura of serenity that pervades it is inextricably linked with slowness, the local way of life.

The magnificent 13
Eleven DOC and two DOCG products are included among Umbrian wines. The origin of the nectar is antique, in fact, it goes back to the Umbrians and Etruscans. The wines of today are true liquid gold, among them Forgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG, Sagrantino DOCG of Montefalco - representing the raisin and dry varieties, with the unmistakable blackberry bouquet - then, the Orvieto classic, refined white wine, much appreciated by popes and artists, for example Luca Signorelli, who took out a contract for a thousand litres a year. And for the connoisseur in search of secrets of the grape taste, there are itineraries along four Wine Roads.