Lovely bitter

Lovely bitter
Magazine: March 2008

They form a “close knit” family: chicory is subdivided into different varieties, but all have one thing in common, that bitter like taste. The following are part of this group; Radicchio, the root type and Belgian endive, but the one that represents chicory the most is the green leaf cut variety. Grown as far back as the Romans, this vegetable can be cut over and over during the year, and is therefore always available. All and all the most tender and young chicory leaves are picked in spring, or in summer in fields where the wild, jagged leaf variety grows naturally. Catalogna, otherwise known as asparagus chicory is eaten stems and all, raw or cooked like spinach, whereas the shoots and sprouts of spiked chicory are used instead, a Lazio region specialty. The short, light coloured shoots are removed from the centre of the lettuce head and the stalk then cut halfway lengthwise: by leaving the sprouts in icy water for around a half an hour, the stalks curl up and the shoots take on their typical aspect. «These so called “tufts of hair” are sweeter than the average chicory - as Gabriele Terralavoro, chef of the “Vesta” restaurant in Tivoli states, - this is why I prefer offering the raw sprouts, dressed with anchovy sauce. One of our best-loved starters is rabbit in a cacciatore (hunter style) sauce with sprouts. Served cold and topped off with the sprout sauce»

The chef recommends
USES
Chicory must be intended for use in fresh salads the day of purchase; for other purposes, it can be sautéed or kept in the refrigerator.

ROMAN SAUCE FOR CHICORY SPROUTS
Crush one clove of garlic in a mortar along with four anchovies preserved in salt, blend with four spoons of extra virgin olive oil and a drop of vinegar until a liquid like, but thick cream is attained, then stir in some freshly ground pepper.

À LA CARTE
When cooking, leaves are suitable for first courses above all: Savoury broad bean and endive minestrone is made of puréed legumes flavoured by chicory.